Gastro pubs
are all the rage lately. According to the dictionary, a gastro pub is a pub
specializing in serving high quality food. I will amend that definition to
include a well thought-out wine list, interesting cocktails, and craft beer.
So, by definition, the brand new Cowan’s
Public is a gastro pub. But let’s not call it
that, shall we? Because almost every new restaurant that opens up these days is
using that term, and few really live up to the definition.
Today’s
“gastro pub” is yesterday’s “gourmet.” The definition of gourmet is “a
connoisseur of fine food and drink.” Throughout the 60s and 70s, when a
restaurant was touted as having “gourmet” food, patrons knew it was going to be
an exquisite experience. Then every Tom, Dick, & Harry food purveyor
started using it to describe their offerings; little by little the term got
watered down, and today it really means nothing (I laugh to myself every time I
see “gourmet” splashed across a menu or an ad). The same line of thinking could
be applied to gastro pub. Let’s review.
I spent a
leisurely afternoon at Cowan’s a couple of Saturdays ago, soaking up the cool
retro vibe, chatting with the two brothers who own the place, and enjoying the
delicious food. This is not your typical “bar food,” my friends. There are no
mozzarella sticks or onion rings on this menu. This is bar food kicked up a
notch or two (or three). Exhibit A: what bar do you know that serves perfectly
cooked Pan-Seared Brussels with a Champagne Mustard Vinaigrette and Shallots?
Owned by Tom
and Dean Maroulakos, they both have experience working in the bar/restaurant
industry in New York City, and Dean has a design background. They set their
sights on an area fixture – the Nutley Pub. The bar, which had gone through a
few owners and incarnations since it was opened in 1934, had fallen into
serious disrepair. Anybody else would have been overwhelmed by the amount of
work needed to turn this post-prohibition bar into something that today’s savvy
customer would want to spend time in. But Tom & Dean took it on, and doing
most of the renovation themselves, have transformed it into a modern day
bar/restaurant but with a nod to its heritage. No detail has been overlooked.
From the curved art deco bar to the restored tin ceiling, to the authentic
artifacts that are sprinkled about, these two know what they’re doing.
The
proprietors have installed experienced bartenders who are passionate about
their job. They want to educate their customers but in a fun way. In addition
to a rotating selection of craft beers and ciders, they have some great
signature cocktails (I had a terrific Mojito the day I visited), and a nice
wine selection. Next time, I’ve got my sights set on their Strawberry
Airmail cocktail, made with Real McCoy rum, muddled strawberry, lime juice,
honey syrup, and topped with Prosecco.
On the food
front, the kitchen is headed by Justin Caldwell (formerly of Upstairs in
Montclair). Justin has developed a terrific menu of small plates made for
sharing (such as the Brussels Sprouts and Deviled Eggs mentioned above). They
will begin to introduce some larger entrée plates this month.
On a
subsequent visit, I tried the Summer Salad - watercress, marinated
tomato, quinoa, roasted chickpeas, charred corn, and grilled haloumi cheese,
with a sherry vinaigrette. I added some nicely charred shrimp to round it out
and with a glass of crisp sauvignon blanc, it was the perfect late spring
dinner.
While Cowan’s
Public is keeping the brothers plenty busy, this dynamic duo already has
another project in the works. They are in the process of developing a
farmhouse-type restaurant in Clifton. They will be renovating an 8,000 square
foot former restaurant and outfitting it with a post and beam bar, outside
garden, and seating for 150 people. They are targeting early 2016 for the
opening. While Cowan’s is set up more as a bar/restaurant, the focus for
Clifton will be food heavy. Sounds good to me.
My bottom
line: don’t go to Cowan’s Public if you’re looking for one of those faux gastro
pubs. But if you’re looking for inventive, well-cooked food, dynamite
cocktails, and a cool place to relax, managed by the personable Maroulakos
brothers, discover Cowan’s – the “un-gastro” pub.
229 Centre
Street
Nutley, NJ
973-542-8151
Open Monday –
Friday, 4pm – 2am
Saturday,
Sunday: 12pm – 2am
Sunday brunch: 12 – 4pm
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