It had been
a long time since I visited Café Matisse
(like at least 10 years). Sometimes you become enamored of the shiny new “objet
d’art” and forget about the old masters. So when I received an invitation to
try their new a la carte menu, I thought it was time to return. And I’m very
glad I did.
Chef/owner,
Peter Loria, has been operating Café Matisse for 27 years (a feat not often
heard of in today’s restaurant climate).
The restaurant inhabits an historic building that once housed a horse
and buggy firehouse, now renovated to a lovely jewel box setting. Interested
in a romantic dinner with your significant other? This is it. The dining room
is just the right amount of dark and intimate. Beautiful chandeliers provide
soft lighting and the banquettes along one wall are perfect for sitting side by
side.
Of course, in
my world, for the perfect love-in, you need delicious and beautifully plated
food; and this is where Chef Loria excels. Each plate is a tiny work of art. Visually
stunning, creative, and delicious. We began with the tender and delightful Smoked Duck Breast with grilled
radicchio, chestnut goat cheese, and pear ginger jam.
The Lobster White Bean Bisque is one of the
most unique lobster bisques I’ve ever had. It is served with a crab guacamole
fritter and peppered shrimp. It was wonderful, but I would have loved a
slightly larger fritter (this was such a tease!).
For our main
course, we could not pass up the Cabernet
Glazed Beef Short Ribs (yes, they were as good as they sound). They are
served with a pumpkin squash puree, potato fontina fritter, caramelized
Brussels sprouts, toasted pumpkin seeds, and apple cider vinaigrette. The
composed dish may read like a fall menu item, but it was sublime on the early spring
night I visited.
We wrapped
up our little weeknight date with an Amaretto
Soaked Chocolate Cannoli Cake. Can you say “wow?” I did. This cake hit all
the right notes: chocolate mousse, cannoli crème, crumbled candied almonds,
chocolate espresso sauce, and balsamic raspberry vanilla seed jus. Yeah, wow. A
perfect cappuccino completed the dessert.
You might
think that in a restaurant of this type the service would be stuffy and
pretentious. Not so, in fact, quite the opposite. The servers were
enthusiastic, friendly, and patient as we asked again to explain the nuances of
some of the dishes. And lest you think they did this just for us since we were
invited guests, I saw them treat all the other customers this way.
The new a la
carte menu at Café Matisse is offered Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday
evenings. The Chef’s Tasting menu is available Friday and Saturday. They also
have a lovely garden for al fresco warm weather dining.
Chef Loria
created the a la carte menu to give customers more flexibility during
weeknights when they might not have the time or budget for the full chef’s
tasting menu.
In addition,
the restaurant is in the process of expanding their footprint to add another 30
seats, which will be complete by the fall of this year. So in case you’ve been
shut out of reservations in the past due to the popularity of Café Matisse,
this should encourage you to try again.
Ordering
from the a la carte menu gives you the opportunity to try several small works
of art during one visit. Now there is no
need to wait for a special occasion to visit Café Matisse. Make a date for a
romantic weekday escape to one of the most charming and acclaimed restaurants
in the area.
Café Matisse
167 Park
Avenue
Rutherford,
NJ
201-935-2995
Open six
days a week for dinner. BYO.